The Dower House Restaurant at the Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath is something of a well-kept secret, except to those who have stayed at the hotel. Drawing up outside along the gentle sweeping curve of the magnificent Royal Crescent, the hotel’s frontage is discreet and keeps its sense of history well looking out over the timeless views of Bath and beyond. You know you have arrived somewhere special when you are ushered in through the large front door and taken by way of the beautifully manicured and peaceful gardens to the Dower House.
The Dower House has a renowned cocktail bar and we took up residence at a table looking out over the garden whilst perusing the cocktail and aperitif menu. Taking the barman’s subtle suggestion, I decided to try their cocktail that has won a prestigious award this year (the large cut-glass trophy was on the bar) being the number one cocktail in the UK. It’s called a ‘green goddess’ and is based on vodka, poire William and lemongrass and ginger cordial; it was beautifully served in a striking glass with a blue twisted stem and had quite a kick to it.
The menu is set out so you either take two courses at £50.00 or three for £60.00 and once you have decided which to aim for we thought it rather a good way to set it out as you can make your choices without recourse to price differences (in my husband’s case the lobster!). It has five or so starters, main courses and desserts all of which I have to say appealed.
I decided on new season garlic velouté with Scottish girolles, lovage oil and Iberico ham to start, followed by pork cheek with garlic mash, red wine shallots, vichy carrots, crisp palmier and sweet cider glaze. My husband chose carpaccio of pork, Fouchtra goat’s cheese, pickled beets and crisp rye tuille to start, followed by native Devon lobster, glazed pork belly, poached grapes, samphire and baby fennel with lobster butter sauce. Apparently the Head Chef Gordon Jones was reported to be in house tonight rather than moonlighting in his other role as celebrity chef with BBC’s Virgin Cooks, so we were confident of being in the hands of the master!
The restaurant is calm and cool, decorated in hues of pale green and for the very romantic a large and imposing love seat is set at the centre of the room with tables for two laid up around it. The wine list is long and imposing and the sommelier is on hand if you need help in making a choice. Quite simply the food was wonderful, there is no other way to describe it, right down to the amuse bouche served between courses and the choice of home-made breads. The lobster dish deserves particular mention for its intricate presentation, yet taking nothing away from the lobster’s delicate flavour. We ended with fig carpaccio, a picture on a plate decorated with tiny blue flowers and spun sugar coils, and a choice of English and French cheeses from the cheese trolley. We let the sommelier introduce us to a Côtes du Rhône dessert wine that specifically complimented cheese; it was lovely and we were very pleased to have found something new.
If you have a special occasion which warrants fine dining at its best, this is the place for you.
Jacquie Vowles